A juicy, medium rare Pat LeFrieda blend burger with caramelized onions, toasted sourdough bread, and finished with a creamy béchamel and emmental cheese. This was both my first and last taste at this years Burger Bash, and it wasn’t because it was the only burger I tried. As I maneuvered my way from station to station I took in the view of the Hudson River and New York’s Upper West side. Pier 92 was a stunning location to house some of the country’s best chef’s burger creations. About half way through the event I think I went through a burger haze/coma, but it didn’t stop me from making the necessary rounds.
I’ve always enjoyed a very traditional burger. Load it up with garden fresh tomato, crisp greens and a healthy spread of ketchup and I’m in burger heaven. I can see the BBQ heating up by the lawn while my dad blares Annie Lenox out of the loud-speaker and maneuvers his way around the pool in an awkward, dance like fashion. Warm days of summer are crowded with memories of long days swimming and tennis followed by evenings by the pool chowing down on burgers and homemade fries. Harold Moore, chef and owner of Commerce Restaurant in New York City’s Greenwich Village, captured these summer moments with his American burger. To me, a traditional American burger is all about the meat, and the toppings are merely there for decoration. Tasty decoration, but decoration nonetheless. If the meat isn’t good then forget the rest of it, you can add as much bacon as you like it’s not going to help. Harold didn’t mess with tradition; he delivered a perfect burger, grilled to a moist medium rare with fresh toppings found at your local farmers market. On first glace you might pass this one up – but let me remind you that the classics and still around for a reason.
Next on my hit list was Ai Firoi’s White Label burger by PJ Calapa. Fresh, spicy pickles, American cheese and bacon marmalade with a side of crispy cacio e pepe tater tots. The bacon marmalade added a delicate smokiness and hint of sweetness, while the pickles added tang and freshness. Let’s just say I was sold at bacon marmalade and I also have a soft spot for tater tots… I may be guilty of still making them on Saturday mornings when no ones home and inevitably end up being both my breakfast and lunch.
My second helping of tater tots came courtesy of Cast Iron’s executive chef Franklin Becker. Before I tell you what’s in this burger, I must ask that you try to hold off judgment. Don’t immediately dismiss this… are you ready? Cheeze whiz. Yes, I said it, cheese whiz. But this is not your grocery store, neon-yellow cheese pump you had in your college dorm. This is cheese whiz on CRACK. Joe Wildmer’s Wisco cheese whiz burger with jalapeño pickles, Nueske bacon and special sauce was a balanced combination of charred beef, buttery cheese and smoky bacon. If that wasn’t enough, the tater tots were also lucky enough to get a stream of melty goodness. I never thought I would crave cheese whiz in my adult years but this burger took it to a whole other level, thank you Chef Becker.
My next victim was a creation from Shane Lyons, executive chef at Distilled, who opted for poblano relish and crispy fried onions on his beef burger. Fried onions you say? Sign me up! Lyons was able to create a seamless combination of heat and charred beefy flavor; the sour, brine of the pickle cut the richness of the burger and offered up a “healthy snack” among all the French fries and potato chips. In case the burger wasn’t enough, it was topped with a crispy tater tot rectangle. I was beginning to see a trend with tater tots, not just your average Sonic version (while I do love those too) but unique versions with truffle oil, sweet potato, corn and cheese toppings.
But the highlight of the night was the French Onion Soup Burger concepted and presented by Le Rivage’s executive chef and owner, Paul Denamiel. I have a warm space in my heart for creamy, rich French onion soup – its transcendent aroma engulfs you as you dive into the deeply dark and flavorful broth. Toasted baguette and bubbly cheese on top of the caramelized onions are the ultimate in flavor. While I never imagined it would translate into anything more that a beautiful soup, Chef Paul was able to bridge two seemly unconnected dishes into something extremely unique. The sweet caramelized onion flavor perfumed the burger, while the toasted English muffin offered a contrasting, chewy texture. I couldn’t get enough, which is why I ended up having three servings throughout the night. Le Rivage’s burger took home the Judge’s choice award for best burger, a clear winner against some very honorable competitors.
A week later I’m still in recovery mode. It was an unforgettable night with great food and even better company. With over 30 outstanding burgers on the menu I’m looking forward to next years Burger Bash. Who’s coming with me?
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